History
A thousand years of trade, settlement and Islamic expansion
have left ruins up and down the East African coast. In the 2nd
century the Greeks knew of this coast and called it Azania.
Later, in the 9th and 10th centuries Arab and Persian traders
and settlers called it Bilad-al-Zenj. Their small settlements
grew into fiercely independent city-states which brought forth
a distinct Arab-African culture called Swahili.
The buildings
in Lamu historical core date from the 18th century though
both folklore and archaeological evidence point to an older
settlement just south and possibly also north of today's town.
Lamu flourished in this period and her traders grew rich exporting
ivory, mangroves, oil seeds, grains, cowries and tortoise shell.
Their dhows sailed to Arabia and India and brought back coveted
oriental silks, spices and porcelain. Along the beach between
Lamu and Shela you still find pieces af Chinese blue and white
porcelain
Lamu continued
to prosper in the 19th century under the protection of the Sultan
of Oman who in about 1820 built the Fort. As the last century
drew to a close the town gradually declined. One hundred years
later the streets and the buildings remain to tell Lamu story:
only they are not empty monuments, but a living town.
The streets
and buildings
The streets of Lamu are narrow, cool and quiet. They are surprisingly
intimate spaces enclosed by massive stone buildings whose thick
coral rag walls give the town its distinct colour and texture.
It is not a town of landmarks and monuments; the Fort alone
stands out. Religiuos and domestic buildings are difficult to
distinguish from one another. Both are simple with few openings
and neither has any exterior decoration except for Lamu characteristic
heavy carved doors.
Lamu mosques
do not have minarets; virtually the only outward sign is the
collections of sandals on the steps at prayer time. From an
architectural point of view the most intresting of the coral
stone buildings are the 18th century traditional Swahili courtyard
houses. Inside, these houses are extravagantly decorated with
rich and masterfully carved plaster ceiling friezes, wall panels
and complex wal niches, and beautifully carved trifoliate arches.
The art of carving plaster was perfected more than 200 years
ago, yet many examples may still be found in the old town. One
of the loveliest is in a "Little House" owned and restored by
the National Museums of Kenya. The "veranda" houses which line
the seafront promenade were built later, around the turn of
this century. The National Museums has also restored one of
these houses and turned it into the Lamu Museum, one of the
finest small museums in Africa.
When
in Lamu
Lamu is a traditional Islamic community with over twenty active
mosques in the town and most women veiled in public. Visitors
are welcome but they are asked to observe and respect local
custom. Foreign women are not expected to put on a bui-bui,
however, beach attire should not be consumed in the street.
Topless or nude bathing is considered an affront. Alcoholics
drinks can be purchased in hotels but they should not be consumed
in the street, on the seafront, or any other public place. Whether
you travel overland or by air, the final leg of your journey
to Lamu will be by ferry boat. Variuos private airlines fly
scheduled services from Nairobi, Mombasa and Malindi toLamu
small airport on Manda Island. The bus from Mombasa takes about
seven hours, a long and dusty ride as the road north of Malindi
is not paved. Also during the rainy seasons, November, May and
June, the road may become impassable.
Sightseeing
and Excursions in Lamu
Lamu Museum
Any tour of Lamu is best begun at the Lamu Museum which provides
an excellent introduction to the town and the region, both past
and present. The exhibits include the material culture of the
archipelago, ethnographic tableaux of neighbouring coasta lpeoples,
as well as a collection of maritime artifacts and model dhows.
After this orientation you are ready to amble through the streets,
set sail for nearby ruins, or just go fishing.
Lamu
Fort
When it opens in 1990, the Fort will be a cultural and community
centre housing maritime and natural history exhibits, a public
library, conservation studios, a museum shop, and a restaurant
and café specializing in Swahili cuisine.
Shela
Shela is a fourty-five minute walk south along the beach. Once
around the point beyond the village and Kijani House, the dunes
and the beach stretch for seven desert miles. There are intresting
ruins at the back of the village, though Shela's most prominent
landmark is its Friday Mosque built with a conical shaped minaret
in 1829.
Takwa
The ruined town of Takwa lies across the channel and up a narrow
mangrove creek on a Manda Island. It can be approached only
by boat and only on a rising tide. You can hear the ocean over
the dunes in this lovely place as you wander among fabled baobab
trees and the remains of a 16th century Swahili town. Visitors
who do not wish to spend the night will have to take a quick
(approx. 45 minutes) tour so as not to miss the outgoing tide.
Be sure to see the Mosque with a pillar over its fine qibla,
and also the pillar tomb. Takwa is a national monument administred
by the National Museums of Kenya. A camping site is provided.
Matondoni
This village is about two hours from Lamu whether by foot or
by mashua, a small sailing dhow. Sailing time depends on the
monsoon and the tide. Matondoni is known for its shipwrights
who build the traditional lateen rigged dhows, both the large
jahazi and the smaller mashua.
Further
Afield
Destinations further north entail passage through the
shallow Mkanda Channel and must be carefully timed with the
tide. The north side of Manda Island togheter with Manda Toto,
a favourite fishing and goggling spot, make a nice day trip.
Visits to Pate Island usuaily require stayng overnight. There
are no facilities and the mosquitos are vicious, so be prepared.
The most important settlement on the island is Lamu historic
rival, Pate Town. There are many ruins here but the most spectacular
is the fort at Siyu in the middle of the island.
